Marina Toeters and Loe Feijs

Fashion innovator and Professor of Industrial Design, respectively.
by-wire.net and Department of Industrial Design, Eindhoven University of Technology
Utrecht and Eindhoven, The Netherlands
This project has two aims. The first is to study and implement a fractal-like structure of circles inspired by Apollonian circles, combined with a pied de poule (houndstooth). The second aim is to push the integration of electric actuators in garments, using the power of algorithmic design and digital manufacturing. Digital embroidery-machine patterns in Tajima file format are generated by an extension of Jun Hu's turtle graphics library Oogway. Flat coils of copper with magnets work as vibration actuators in the garment (like the well-known rotary vibration motors, but better integrated in the garment and matching fashion production methods). We develop an attractive fashion look based on the new pattern, to be shown at Bridges.
Pied de Pulse
60 x 60 x 10 cm
Cotton, embroidered yarn, embroidered enameled copper wire, Arduino and H bridge circuitry
2016
The embroidered pattern is a synthesis of a growth algorithm to create a semi-random circle packing and the pied de poule fashion pattern (houndstooth). The circles are packed inside a pied de poule figure. The mathematics of pied de poule is based on both Heesch Kienzle theory and a turtle graphics description. In total 150 circles are stitches, three of which are electric coils working as actuators when combined with magnets. This can be used for signalling events to the wearer of the jacket. We envision many possible applications: bodily parameters for sports, messages from mobile networks, friendly notifications from your garments, and so on.
The 19 x 19 cm pattern 70,000 stitches is embroidered on a PR655 embroidery machine.