Marina Toeters and Loe Feijs

Fashion innovator and Professor of Industrial Design, respectively and Department of Industrial Design, Eindhoven University of Technology
Utrecht and Eindhoven, The Netherlands

Complex behavior arises from a multitude of interacting agents. Even if the rules of the agents seem of simple design, the behavior of a crowd of agents can be overwhelmingly complex. The three cornerstones of complexity theory are emergence, transition and resilience. The fashion system is an example of a complex adaptive system. We focus on a particular type of fashion pattern known as Pied-de-poule (houndstooth) and use it as an inspiration to design cellular automatons that generate new patterns (motifs). The patterns are woven and the fabrics are used to design and construct a mini-collection of contemporary fashion items.

Cellular automaton based bomber jacket
70 x 45 x 30 cm
Ultra detailed woven polyester textile

This is the bomber jacket of the collection (in 2017 we showed a shirt and a jacket at Bridges). The cellular automaton is programmed in Mathematica 10.4 at Eindhoven University of Technology. The fabric is woven at EE-exclusives in the Netherlands. EE stands for Van Engelen & Evers. The family business has been weaving quality products since 1900 in the village Heeze in North-Brabant. Now EE supplies woven labels and other products of the very best quality to a wide range of leading global brands, see The garments are designed and realized in the studio of in Utrecht.

Cellular automaton based sleeveless top
50 x 36 x 30 cm
Ultra detailed woven polyester textile

This is the sleeveless top, part of the same collection. We thank Laura Tedrekull, Nadeřda Jcrilova, Ruth-Gertrud Rass, Reti-Lii Ôunapuu, Robin Matulessy, Marc Evers, Joost Jansen, Frank Delbressine, Robin van der Schaft, Maaike Staal, Nicole Gruithuijzen and Troy Nachtigall for their help and support during this project.