Marina Toeters, Fabienne van der Weiden, Jessica Joosse and Loe Feijs

Fashion Innovators and Professor of Industrial Design, respectively, LABELEDBY. and Eindhoven University of Technology
Eindhoven, The Netherlands

The artists' motivation is to stimulate innovation in fashion. Not only the innovative use of known motifs like pied-de-poule (Houndstooth), where mathematics is essential, but also material and technological innovation, next to business innovation (new forms of cooperation). The printing technology is new, still in an experimental phase. It is based on heat transfer of pigment ink on Texcol® paper proposed by Neenah Coldenhove, which now for the first time transfers to cotton (no more polyester). Other innovations include 3D printing with biodegradable filament for the buttons, laser engraving for the pattern design and laser cutting for the construction of the garments.

Hawaii theme pied-de-poule sampler (3 outfits)
Hawaii theme pied-de-poule sampler (3 outfits)
140 x 40 x 40 cm
Heat transfer of pigment ink on cotton.

The artwork is a 3 outfits of Hawaiian shirts, dress and short trousers in printed cotton. It is a sampler of the eight isohedral tilings of a single pied-de-poule tile (houndstooth). The tilings have Heesch types TTTTTT (2 distinct variations), TCCTCC (4) and TGGTGG (2). Referring to the Orbifold theory of Thurston and Conway, the symmetries in each tiling produce a unique 3D shape. The outfit shows the eight different pied-de-poule variations and three orbifolds: a torus, a twisted pillow and Klein bottle. They are added to the fabric print as fantasy creatures, similar to the turtles etc. of traditional Hawaiian shirts. The same print is developed in multiple colours and media, in yellow and in pink versions.