2023 Bridges Conference Fashion Show

by.wire.net, LABELEDBY., LAURENTIUS LAB. and TU/e

Designers

Marina Toeters, Fabienne van der Weiden, Jessica Joosse and Loe Feijs

Fashion Innovators and Professor of Industrial Design, respectively

by-wire.net, LABELEDBY., LAURENTIUS.LAB, TU/e

Eindhoven, Sittard

loe.feijs@gmail.com

http://by-wire.net/

https://www.labeledby.com/

https://fashiontechfarm.com/

https://www.tue.nl/en/research/researchers/loe-feijs/

Biography

by.wire.net is the company of Marina Toeters, fashion innovator. LABELEDBY. is the company of Fabienne van der Weiden and Jessica Joosse, fashion innovators. LAURENTIUS.LAB is te label of Loe Feijs, professor emeritus at TU/e. The artists' motivation is to stimulate innovation in fashion. Not only the innovative use of known motifs like pied-de-poule (Houndstooth), where mathematics is essential, but also material and technological innovation, next to business innovation (new forms of cooperation). The printing technology is new, still in an experimental phase. It is based on heat transfer of pigment ink on Texcol® paper proposed by Neenah Coldenhove, which now for the first time transfers to cotton (no more polyester). Other innovations include 3D printing with biodegradable filament for the buttons, laser engraving for the pattern design and laser cutting for the construction of the garments.

Looks

Image for look 'Hawaii shirt, Sampler of Isohedral Tilings of the Pied-de-poule Tile, Hawaii shirt, Sampler of Isohedral Tilings of the Pied-de-poule Tile, Hawaii shirt, Sampler of Isohedral Tilings of the Pied-de-poule Tile'

The artwork is a men's outfit of a Hawaiian shirt and short trousers in printed cotton. It is a sampler of the eight isohedral tilings of a single pied-de-poule tile (houndstooth). The tilings have Heesch types TTTTTT (2 distinct variations), TCCTCC (4) and TGGTGG (2). Referring to the Orbifold theory of Thurston and Conway, the symmetries in each tiling produce a unique 3D shape. The outfit shows the eight different pied-de-poule variations and three orbifolds: a torus, a twisted pillow and Klein bottle. They are added to the fabric print as fantasy creatures, similar to the turtles etc. of traditional Hawaiian shirts. The same print is developed in two colours, more yellow in the shirt, more pink in the shorts.

Image for look 'Hawaii shirt, Sampler of Isohedral Tilings of the Pied-de-poule Tile, Hawaii shirt, Sampler of Isohedral Tilings of the Pied-de-poule Tile, Hawaii shirt, Sampler of Isohedral Tilings of the Pied-de-poule Tile'

See image #1

Picture taken at the DIA exhibition in Shaoxing, China 2023.

Image for look 'Hawaii shirt, Sampler of Isohedral Tilings of the Pied-de-poule Tile, Hawaii shirt, Sampler of Isohedral Tilings of the Pied-de-poule Tile, Hawaii shirt, Sampler of Isohedral Tilings of the Pied-de-poule Tile'

The second man's outfit is also based on the new pied-de-poule tessellations, the "next-nature" animals and tropical themes. Whereas the first outfit fabric is directly designed in Illustrator, the cotton print of this outfit is re-assembled from images of the laser-engraved patterns. This gives a more crafted and layered look and feel. Laser-engraved details are added later as pockets and buttons.

Also see the video at https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=feijs+pied+de+poule+innovation

Image for look 'Hawaii shirt, Sampler of Isohedral Tilings of the Pied-de-poule Tile, Hawaii shirt, Sampler of Isohedral Tilings of the Pied-de-poule Tile, Hawaii shirt, Sampler of Isohedral Tilings of the Pied-de-poule Tile'

Yet another variation on the same design.

Image for look 'Hawaii shirt, Sampler of Isohedral Tilings of the Pied-de-poule Tile, Hawaii shirt, Sampler of Isohedral Tilings of the Pied-de-poule Tile, Hawaii shirt, Sampler of Isohedral Tilings of the Pied-de-poule Tile'

Group photo of the entire collection.

Image for look 'Hawaii shirt, Sampler of Isohedral Tilings of the Pied-de-poule Tile, Hawaii shirt, Sampler of Isohedral Tilings of the Pied-de-poule Tile, Hawaii shirt, Sampler of Isohedral Tilings of the Pied-de-poule Tile'

Thumbnail (one of the orbifold fantasy creatures)

About the look

Hawaii shirt, Sampler of Isohedral Tilings of the Pied-de-poule Tile

Polyester, cotton, sublimation printing

2020

The artwork is a men's outfit of a Hawaiian shirt and short trousers in printed cotton. It is a sampler of the eight isohedral tilings of a single pied-de-poule tile (houndstooth). The tilings have Heesch types TTTTTT (2 distinct variations), TCCTCC (4) and TGGTGG (2). Referring to the Orbifold theory of Thurston and Conway, the symmetries in each tiling produce a unique 3D shape. The outfit shows the eight different pied-de-poule variations and three orbifolds: a torus, a twisted pillow and Klein bottle. They are added to the fabric print as fantasy creatures, similar to the turtles etc. of traditional Hawaiian shirts. The same print is developed in two colours, more yellow in the shirt, more pink in the shorts. The math is in the 2020 Bridges paper (see https://archive.bridgesmathart.org/2020/bridges2020-113.html#gsc.tab=0)

Hawaii shirt, Sampler of Isohedral Tilings of the Pied-de-poule Tile

Polyester, cotton, sublimation printing

2020

Another shirt

Hawaii shirt, Sampler of Isohedral Tilings of the Pied-de-poule Tile

Polyester, cotton, sublimation printing

2020

Another variation of the same theme