Holly Krueger, Loe Feijs, Marina Toeters, Rong-Hao Liang

Are you looking at the garment, the fish, or is the red herring looking at you? Do you see the fiducial markers embedded in the classic Houndstooth check pattern’s hypnotic repeat? Layers of distraction may provide an apt metaphor for future notions of uncertainty surrounding surveillance markers on apparel. This mini collection consists of a dress and a sweater. There are three levels of mathematics in it: • First, the pied-de-poule (houndstooth) tessellation, which is the interference pattern of three simple patterns: the twill weave, the horizontal checkers and the vertical checkers. • Second, the fiducial markers represent an error correcting code with 2320 distinct code words and Hamming distance 10. These "Aruco" markers were first created for camera recognition in robotic applications. • Third, the pattern has variable-size tiles by means of a holomorphic mapping using a complex exponential function. The pattern is generated using custom Processing (Java) software and sublimation-printed onto polyester. The pattern is generated using custom Processing (Java) software and sublimation-printed onto polyester. The red herring is an original aquarelle painted by Holly Krueger.

Sweater with Aruco Codes and Pied-de-poule motif has the same pattern as the red-herring dress and the same three levels of math. The formulas and tessellation types for pied-de-poule were first given in Feijs’ Bridges 2012 paper. The fashion application of the the Aruco markers is described in our Bridges 2024 paper. The holomorphic mapping using a complex exponential function is described in our Bridges 2025 paper. We thank Sophie Van Kooten, Hannah van Iterson, Brun Stöver, Femke Vorselen, Feije van de Wetering, Esmee Kobes and Deniz Korkmaz for their help and support during the development of this project.