Designers

Leslie Eisinger

Fashion researcher

Amsterdam University of Applied Science

Amsterdam, the Netherlands

l.a.eisinger@hva.nl

View exhibition history

Troy Nachtigall

Designer, Designer Researcher

Amsterdam University of Applied Sciences, TU/e

Amsterdam / Eindhoven

t.r.nachtigall@hva.nl

troykyo.net

View exhibition history

Biography

The 3D Knit Robot Lab at the Amsterdam University of Applied Sciences (HvA–AMFI) is a living lab run by Leslie Eisinger and Troy Nachtigall exploring how digital knitting technologies can transform textile production from industrial mass manufacturing to localized, data-driven systems. At its core is a Shima Seiki WholeGarment knitting machine that enables the direct production of fully formed garments in three dimensions, eliminating cutting and sewing and significantly reducing material waste. The lab serves as both a research environment and an educational platform, bringing together students, researchers, designers, and industry partners to experiment with advanced knitting techniques and new production models. It operates within the broader research agenda of digital fabrication and circular textile systems, investigating how garments can be produced on demand, personalized with data, and manufactured closer to the point of use. A central focus of the lab is integrating design, programming, and material development into a single workflow. Rather than treating garments as static products, the lab approaches knitwear as a programmable system, with structure, fit, and function encoded directly into machine instructions. This enables new forms of customization, including garments generated from body data and adapted to individual users. The lab also serves as a testbed for sustainable and circular practices. Projects such as “Keeping it Local” explore how localized production and identity-driven design can reduce environmental impact while strengthening regional textile ecosystems. Educational programs, including intensive summer and winter schools, train participants in the technical and conceptual aspects of digital knitting, fostering interdisciplinary collaboration between creative and technical domains. https://www.amsterdamuas.com/research/labs/3d-knit-robot-lab

Looks

Image for look 'Space Dying Hilbert Curve Scarf'

Hilbert Curve Scarf Flat

Photo Troy Nachtigall

Image for look 'Space Dying Hilbert Curve Scarf'

Hilbert Curve Scarf when worn

Model Femke van Woerden

About the look

Space Dying Hilbert Curve Scarf

Robotic Knitting in 100% hand Died Wool

2026

The work stems from an attempt to translate a mathematical construct into a knitted artifact through controlled machine processes. The starting point is the Hilbert space-filling curve, selected for its ability to map a one-dimensional sequence onto a two-dimensional plane while preserving locality. This mapping is operationalized by encoding directional states (straight, left, right) as discrete color and stitch “packages,” which are then sequenced into a compressed knitting pattern. The project is therefore driven by a constructive logic: geometry is not represented visually but executed materially through knitting instructions. The relationship to mathematics is structural rather than referential. The Hilbert curve functions as a generative system that defines both form and process. Its iterative nature is translated into repeatable knitting units, while the curve’s compression into a linear sequence aligns with machine-readable patterning. A later reflection identifies this sequence as equivalent to an L-system representation, indicating that the garment operates as a physical instantiation of a formal grammar. Additionally, quantitative control is maintained through parameters such as stitch count, loop length, and yarn consumption, linking discrete mathematics to textile fabrication. The uniqueness of the fashion item lies in coupling algorithmic structure with material manipulation across the value chain. The scarf is shaped not only by short-row knitting to produce curvature but also by a custom dye process that inverts conventional space dyeing. A full-length knitted tube is dyed as a single gradient and then unraveled, producing a non-repeating color sequence aligned with the fractal path. This ensures that chromatic variation follows the encoded geometry rather than a periodic pattern. The result is a textile in which form, color, and production logic are co-dependent, with the machine acting as an interpreter of a mathematical system.